Antarctica to Easter Island
ANTARCTICA TO EASTER ISLAND
Traveling to the most remote places on Earth has been a life-long ambition. Not just for the beauty, but more so for the photographic opportunities, the history and the science.
Now, in the wake of the politicization of the global warming trend through most of the 20th Century, and over-hyped now well into the 21st Century, the science took center stage in my desire to finally “go”. Go we did! We booked a nine day expedition cruise out of Ushuaia, Argentina, and we put together a 3 day extension in Santiago, Chile and another 3 days on Rapa Nui (Easter Island).
Antarctica is the 5th largest Continent of the seven. The land mass is larger than all of the USA and Mexico combined. (5.4 million square miles) About 98% of Antarctica is covered by ice averaging 1.2 miles in thickness, but much of it is 2.5 MILES THICK which is actually causing the land mass portion to sink! The ice sheet extends to all but the northernmost reaches of the Antarctic Peninsula.
Antarctica, on average, is the coldest, driest, and windiest continent, and has the highest average elevation of all the continents. That is, everywhere you look, you see high mountains. Most of Antarctica is a polar desert with annual precipitation of only 8 inches along the coast and far less inland. The temperature in Antarctica has reached -128.6F . During our voyage, during the “late Spring” there. The temperatures ranged from 28 to 34 degrees F.
In the Western half of the Continent, which includes the Peninsula portion, the ocean waters have warmed a bit by 1 degree C or 1.8 degree F. Most of the scientists on board our ship attributed this warming to the now warmer westerly flow prevailing winds and the west to east circulation of the Southern Ocean. The minority opinion points to the two active volcanoes and the dozens of known inactive volcanoes under the ice that may be contributing to the melt and warmer temps. However, there may be a very positive environmental result as the plankton – both phytoplankton and zooplankton – have exploded producing great swarms of krill and thus increasing the food chain upward. Many research studies are now under way to confirm the “why” of the increase, but right now, it is certainly benefiting all of Nature there.
Speaking of the volcanoes, our first landing was in Deception Island - Whaler's Bay, which is one of the active volcanoes. You can see the "steam" rising through the volcanic ash that lines the shore of the crater. It is not quite as big as our Crater Lake in Oregon (6 miles across) but at 5 miles at its widest, it is a huge crater. We sailed all around the interior. You can see it on Google Earth at: -69.953204, -60.639606.
Depending on who you read or believe, 80 to 90% of all freshwater on Earth is contained within the Antarctic Ice Sheet. (The 1.7 million square mile Greenland Ice Sheet contains the other 9% of all freshwater). Most authorities state that 99% of ALL FRESHWATER is contained within the two massive ice sheets.
Per the scientist on board our expedition ship, the Antarctic Ice sheet is melting at the rate of 109 to 180 giga-tons per year. (giga = billion) That is a lot of water! We know this because since 1992 satellite telemetry has been measuring it. (A newer model was just launched this year) Before 1992, we had no way of measuring the melt. Therefore, we have nothing to compare it too. During two of the 2 to 4 daily on-board science and history classes for the entire 9 days, we learned that if ALL the ice melted, our oceans would rise 69 meters (226 feet). That would certainly inundate all of Florida, most of Mississippi and Alabama and a good bit of Southern Arkansas! However, what the geologist presenter did not tell until asked, at the current rate of melt, this would take OVER ONE MILLION YEARS!!! What they also failed to tell us was the NEWER 2014 NASA publication of the WHOLE CONTENENT satellite telemetry study and not just the JPL Western half study they used to frighten every one, the Contenent is still experiencing a NET INCREASE of ice!!!!
From NASA: "A new NASA study says that an increase in Antarctic snow accumulation that began 10,000 years ago is currently adding enough ice to the continent to outweigh the increased losses from its thinning glaciers.
The research challenges the conclusions of other studies, including the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change’s (IPCC) 2013 report, which says that Antarctica is overall losing land ice.
According to the new analysis of satellite data, the Antarctic ice sheet showed a net gain of 112 billion tons of ice a year from 1992 to 2001. That net gain slowed to 82 billion tons of ice per year between 2003 and 2008."
While most of the presentations made an attempt to balance the scientific evidence (solar activity, Milankovitch cycles, many 1,000's years gaps in the ice core evidence, low carbon dioxide levels with much higher average global temperatures in past warming cycles, and much higher average global temperatures over the many cycles well before humans even walked the planet) they were still heavily biased toward carbon. Of course, none could point to any accepted research that actually proves CO2 causes global warming (yes, there is a very high correlation for the period 1890 to 2000, but no actual repeatable – verifiable experimental proof) Nor, did any have an answer for the lack of economical long term storage of non-carbon renewable based energy sources to fill the power demands during the many hours that these renewables would be inactive.
One of the most revealing statements made in a presentation by the head geologist was that between 1992 and 2016, the ice melt has caused a 11mm rise in the oceans. I immediately stopped him and asked for a clarification to be sure I heard him correctly. Yes, 1992 was the first satellite confirmation of the ice/water volume lost and 2016 was the latest released data …. and yes, it was a whopping 11 millimeters … not centimeters, not inches ...11mm. Why is this significant? Well, because the UNIPCC politicians and highly paid and leveraged “scientist” that work for them are reporting a 3mm rise per year! (While the rest of the science is reporting a steady 1mm per year rise) So, 11mm over a 24 year period is only a 0.45mm rise (less than ½ of a millimeter) per year! ). Another begrudging admission during our classes was that ice is actually increasing on the Eastern half of Antarctica.
Observationally, as shown in my photographs, retreating glaciers are not apparent. There is one minor glacier on the western coast that has retreated a bit but not dramatically. If the coastal areas get only 8” of precipitation a year, we got half of it the 5 days we were in the Antarctic waters!
During our trip, it was reported that the station at the actual South Pole, reported a CO2 measurement that exceeded 400ppm. To put that in context, 400ppm is ONLY 4/100th of ONE PERCENT of our atmosphere. Our atmosphere is 78% Nitrogen, 21% Oxygen, and 1% Argon. Water vapor is 23%..
The science and history lessons alone were worth the price of the trip, but the beauty of the Antarctic is beyond description. MY photographs simply do not convey the joy and grandeur of being there. The Antarctic was unknown until 1840 even though Captain Cook speculated on its existence in 1775. We simply cannot comprehend the courage of the early explorers in wooden ships and the extreme hardships they endured to explore the Continent. The Moon landing in 1969 was a walk in the park compared to the men who went South 100+ years ago!
Of all the presentations and lectures on board the MS Midnatsol, the most interesting and exciting was the two given by Dr. Norman Thagard. (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Norman_Thagard) It was my privilege and honor to have him sit down next to me and chat two days later. His suite was down the hall from our room, and we bumped into him, his son and grandchildren frequently. He freely spoke with anyone who approached including two other members of our little group. A true American Hero and patriot. A Marine’s Marine! He has given much to the betterment of science and to human kind. How thrilling it was to have him on board.
The Drake Strait was all we had expected, but not as rough as it often is. Going down (two days down and two days up) it was rocking and rolling causing us all to do the “penguin walk”. We followed behind a storm going down. On the return trip, it was worse. Fortunately, Linda and I are not prone to motion sickness. One in our little band of six, BG, did become ill after the first day, but was back to her normal vibrant self the following day when things calmed a bit. She seemed fine on the return trip. My guess is no more than 10% of the 387 total passengers became throwing up ill.
We missed the shopping opportunities in Ushuaia going and coming. We arrived there on a Sunday and got back 6AM Friday morning. It is a beautiful little City – the farthest South on our Planet – of about 8,000.
Our flights were all, thankfully, uneventful. 10 gentle ups and 10 soft downs. (Little Rock to St. Louis, to Ft. Lauderdale. Train to Miami, then Miami to Buenos Aries, then to Ushuaia. Ushuaia to Santiago, Chile, then to Easter Island and back to Santiago, then Miami. Ft. Lauderdale to Love Field, Dallas, then home)
We spent 3 days in Santiago. Our first visit to Chile. Chile is the most prosperous South American Country. The government remains stable. Our hotel was in the historic district of old town close to the Nations seat of Government. We walked all over and never felt insecure. The people are friendly and the local police (actually, national police) were helpful. It is also more expensive than other South American countries we have visited. We did the Hop-on-Hop-off bus on Saturday and Sunday we had a private guide, Marcelo, into the Andes Mountains on the hunt to photograph an Andean Condor. No luck, but we had a great time and saw beautiful scenery. If anyone is planning a trip to Santiago, I can give you Marcelo's contact info. We highly recommend him. No doubt, climate change has affected the Andes as many glaciers have retreated, but not as severely as we see in our Northern Hemisphere. Per Marcelo, the snow caps on many peaks now disappear int eh summer when they did not when he was a child.
EASTER ISLAND: WOW!! We saw the sunshine for maybe a total of 8 hours the entire time we were in Antarctica. On Easter Island, we were sun burned! Clear blue skies to puffy white clouds every day. Temperatures in the low 60's at night and 80 during the day. What an icing on our vacation cake!
We stayed in a small family run motel on the town's main street (some would deem it a hostel) called the Tekena Inn. The proprietor, Juan, was wonderful. He met us at the airport without having to call, with a flower lei. There is only one city on the 63 square mile Island. Most of the Island is a National Park. The Tekena Inn is within 4 blocks of everything you want to see or do in Hanga Roa. There are only about 7,750 inhabitants on Rapa Nui and about 3,500 are of Rapa Nui blood. Officially, only the Rapa Nui can actually own land there. Tourism is their main economy. There are farms and ranches, and of course, fishing. We had the freshest and best tasting seafood while there. Dining out prices are NYC comparable or even much of San Francisco dining prices. Lodging is cheap due to competition for the 1,000 visitors per day (two flights a day on a B787) with no A/C. There are over 200 “hotels” but only about 4 or so offer A/C at upward to $400 per night. We paid $80. As soon as the sun sets, the breeze cools things down quickly so sleeping was no problem with a small fan keeping the air stirring.
Internet is extremely slow on the Island, but they seem to have very good cell phone service.
We rented a car for our first full day – with NO insurance even available – and took a small group private tour the next day. Between the two days, we covered the entirety of the Island. Our Guide, Atta, claims to be the 36 year old son of two of the two most famous archaeologist that spent the first 20 years of his life supervising the monument restorations from the mid-70's to the mid-90's. I am still in the process of confirming that story. I'll edit this once I have completed my research. Atta was extremely informative of the Island's history, culture, and geology – as one would expect from such parents he claimed. As to the effects of global warming, there has been virtually none. Easter Island is the most remote inhabited land of Earth. Being small and literally in the middle of the South Pacific Ocean, its tidal change is barely a meter from low to high tide. With best archaeological and carbon dating of artifacts, the first structure appeared around 1200. Sea to shore landings were laid with stone. Sea rise over the past 800 years has been six feet. Less than the predicted one foot per year. Stories of sea rise swallowing remote Islands are either greatly exaggerated or outright lies. While I do not doubt that Islands have experienced sea inundation, it is more likely due to land mass sinking versus sea level rising more than the one foot per 100 year average. There is no indication what so ever that the 1mm per year is or has accelerated in our life-times. Atta did state that they have experienced stronger storms over his adult years, and that due to those storms, there has been some beach erosion. He totally dismissed global warming as a factor.
UPDATE on our Guide, "Atta". I have confirmed his account of his upbringing. Full name is Atariki Cristino. His parents are Claudio P. Cristino and Patricia Vargas Casanova. Both are full professors in the Anthropology Department at the University of Chile.
Claudio P. Cristino (father)
Archaeologist, Anthropologist, Pacific Islands Explorer and Polynesian culture expert. Professor at Department of Anthropology and Director Easter Island and Oceania Studies Centre, University of Chile.
RESEARCH
Claudio Cristino has been Easter Island's resident archaeologist for the past two decades. He is also Assistant Professor of Prehistory at the University of Chile, Research Fellow at the Easter Island Studies Institute of the University of Chile, Associate Researcher with the Department of Archaeology of French Polynesia and Director of the Eastern Pacific Research Foundation, a Maryland-based organization that finances scientific projects in the Eastern Pacific. Claudio's connection with Easter Island dates back to 1976, when he arrived as a graduate student to participate in the restoration of the famous birdman cult ceremonial site of Orongo. In the following years he excavated and restored Ahu o Kava and many other ceremonial sites. In 1978 he founded the Easter Island Studies Institute of the University of Chile, and acted as its first Director until 1985. From 1992 to 1996, he was the archaeologist in charge of restoring Easter Island's largest ahu at Tongariki. He has continued to carry out numerous studies in anthropology, ethnology, and ethno history on Easter Island, in addition to directing the Rapa Nui Archaeological survey, a gigantic task still in progress.
Claudio Cristino has spent most of his adult life researching and living in different islands of Polynesia. Made extensive expertise in the Pacific and is currently pursuing other graduate academic studies at the University of Paris I (PanthéonSorbonne). Claudio Cristino connection with Polynesia dates back to 1976, when he worked on the restoration of the famous ceremonial village of Orongo in Rapa Nui. In 1978 he co-founded the Institute for Easter Island Studies at the University of Chile in Hanga Roa, and was its first Director. Between 1977 and 1990 with colleague Patricia Vargas conducted an archaeological survey of Rapa Nui registering more than 20,000 archaeological features and sites that make up the largest database of its kind in the Pacific islands. Between 1980 and 1990 he served as visiting professor at the Centre des Sciences Humaines Polynesia contributing to the organization of the Archaeological Service of French Polynesia and was responsible for research and restoration of various religious monuments (marae). Appointed Director of the Anthropological Museum, returned to Rapa Nui in 1990 and became Country Director for the restoration of Ahu Tongariki, the major ceremonial center of Polynesia. Author of numerous articles and publications, with Patricia Vargas and Roberto Izaurieta his main work in recent years is "1000 Years in Rapa Nui. Archaeology of Settlement" (University Press, December 2006, 450 pages) that includes decades of important research. It is considered one of the most renowned experts in Polynesia and Rapa Nui, and is doing research in archeology, anthropology and ethnology in several islands and archipelagos of the region. When not on a remote island, is a professor of Archaeology, Ethnography of Oceania, and Rapa Nui in the Department of Anthropology. Professor Cristino has participated in important works of restoration of monumental religious architecture in Easter Island and East Polynesia and Marae of Vainaue (Tahiti), the Village Ceremonial Orongo and ceremonial center of Ahu Tongariki (Easter Island).
PATRICIA VARGAS CASANOVA (mother)
Author: "Unearthed", "Easter Island's Silent Sentinels" and others
In 1977, Claudio Cristino and Patricia Vargas Casanova began the massive Easter Island Archaeological Survey, a long term research program that to date has covered 85% of the island and recorded over 20,000 archaeological features and sites, including the documentation and mapping of almost 900 moai and the statue quarries of Rano Raraku (1981) where the great majority of the moai were carved, as part of the Easter Island Statuary Project carried out by the University of Chile´s research team (1977-1996). The pair have also directed the excavations and restoration of Ahu Tongariki one of the most notable monuments of Rapa Nui, protected as part of the National Park, a world heritage site since 1996.
From 1985 and 1994, they all carried out extensive archaeological surveys, excavations or restoration work in the Society Islands, Marquesas, and in the Australs Islands in French Polynesia. Between 1986 and 1991 Edwards and a team of workers from Raivavae carried out a complete archaeological survey of the island, recording a total of 610 compound structures and isolated components and features. The results of this major work, the first complete inventory of one of the Austral Islands, were published in 2003. Thereafter he has been dedicated to investigate rock art and archaeoastronomy in Eastern Polynesia and Easter Island.
In 2011, they each received from The Explorer Club the Lowell Thomas Award for their work on Easter Island under the "Mysteries of the World" category.
It is believed that Easter Island's Polynesian inhabitants arrived on Easter Island sometime near 1200 AD. They created a thriving and industrious culture, as evidenced by the island's numerous enormous stone moai and other artifacts. However, land clearing for cultivation and the introduction of the Polynesian rat led to gradual deforestation. By the time of European arrival in 1722, the island's population was estimated to be 2,000–3,000. European diseases, Peruvian slave raiding expeditions in the 1860s, and emigration to other islands, e.g. Tahiti, further depleted the population, reducing it to a low of 111 native inhabitants in 1877.
Chile annexed Easter Island in 1888. In 1966, the Rapa Nui were granted Chilean citizenship. In 2007 the island gained the constitutional status of "special territory." Administratively, it belongs to the Valparaíso Region, comprising a single commune of the Province Isla de Pascua. The 2017 Chilean census registered 7,750 people on the island, of whom 3,512 (45%) considered themselves Rapa Nui.
Easter Island is the most remote inhabited island in the world. The nearest inhabited land (around 50 residents in 2013) is Pitcairn Island, 1,289 miles away. The nearest town with a population over 500 is Rikitea, on the island of Mangareva, 1,619 miles away; the nearest continental point lies in central Chile, 2,182 mile away.
Easter Island is considered part of Insular Chile.
We were glad to arrive home safely after over 3 weeks of some of the most beautiful and educational travel we have been privileged to make. Thank you Jesus. Merry Christmas all.